Perigord Vert: Why North Dordogne is Perfect for Discerning Travellers
When most people think of the Dordogne, they picture Sarlat-la-Canéda's medieval streets, the famous Lascaux caves, and the stunning châteaux of the Vézère Valley. The South Dordogne is undeniably beautiful - there's a reason it's well-known. But here's what the guidebooks don't always tell you: it's also packed with tour buses, restaurant queues, and the kind of crowds that can take the shine off even the most spectacular sight.
We're in what the French call the Périgord Vert - the "Green Périgord" - in the northern part of the Dordogne. At Your French Stay, our gîte Beaux Souvenirs is perfectly positioned to show you why the North deserves serious consideration. And whilst it might not have the name recognition of the South, that's precisely what makes it special. This is the Dordogne for travellers who've done their homework, who value authenticity over photo opportunities, and who'd rather discover hidden gems than follow the crowds.
If you're planning your next Dordogne escape, here's why the North is worth exploring.
Périgord Vert at a Glance:
- Quieter, greener, and more authentic than the South
- No tour buses clogging narrow village streets
- Real French villages where locals outnumber tourists
- Better balance of attractions without the crowds
- Easier drive from Calais (7.5 hours vs 9.5+ to the South)
- Direct Saturday flights to Limoges Airport (just 45 minutes away)
- Rolling countryside, lush forests, abundant wildlife
- Perfect for walkers, cyclists, and nature lovers
The South Dordogne Reality
Let's be clear - the South Dordogne is genuinely stunning. Sarlat is one of France's most beautiful medieval towns, and attractions such as Rocamadour and the Lascaux prehistoric caves are well worth visiting. Many of our guests have been to the South before - often multiple times - and loved it. But here's what they tell us about their experiences: Sarlat-la-Canéda in high season is a victim of its own success. This small medieval town, with its narrow streets, has limited parking and fills up extraordinarily quickly. By mid-morning in summer, you're circling for spaces or parking 20 minutes away. The restaurants, whilst charming, primarily cater to the tourist trade with similar menus repeated throughout the town. It's beautiful, but it's busy.
The roads in peak season become clogged with tour buses navigating tight medieval streets never designed for modern traffic. What should be a pleasant drive between châteaux can become a frustrating crawl behind coaches.
The authentic French feeling can be harder to find when you're one of thousands of visitors experiencing the same carefully curated attractions. It's still France, but it's France through a very well-polished tourist lens.
None of this makes the South "bad" - it's simply the reality of being one of France's most popular destinations. But if you've already experienced it, or if crowds and queues aren't your idea of a relaxing holiday, there's a compelling alternative.
What Makes Périgord Vert Different
The North Dordogne - the Périgord Vert - offers something increasingly rare: authentic rural France that hasn't been overwhelmed by tourism. This is working countryside where farmers still sell at weekly markets, where village boulangeries bake for locals rather than coach parties, and where you're far more likely to hear French spoken than English.
The Landscape
The name "Green Périgord" isn't marketing hyperbole - this region is genuinely, gloriously green. Unlike the drier, more Mediterranean feel of the South, the North is lush and verdant. Rolling hills covered in dense forest, wildflower meadows, clear streams and rivers, and that vibrant quality of the French countryside that feels almost impossibly pastoral.
The Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Park encompasses much of the area, protecting over 1,800 square kilometres of stunning landscape. This is prime territory for walkers, with hundreds of marked trails ranging from gentle riverside strolls to more challenging hill walks. The flora and fauna here are exceptional - we regularly see deer, wild boar, red squirrels, and an extraordinary variety of birdlife.
The Authentic Village Experience
Our gîte, Beaux Souvenirs, sits in the village of Mialet - a genuine working French village with a population of around 650. Within a six-minute walk, you have an excellent brasserie (Casa O) and bar, a traditional bakery, a butcher, and a small grocery/cafe serving a fantastic breakfast and lunch using local produce.
This isn't a village that's been preserved for tourists - it's simply a village getting on with life. You'll hear the church bells, see the mayor putting up notices in the square, and encounter the same faces at the Tuesday market. It's the France that people imagine when they dream of French rural life, and it's becoming increasingly difficult to find in more famous regions.
The Roads
After driving seven and a half hours from Calais to reach us, many of our guests are genuinely relieved to have arrived at the Dordogne without needing to push on another two-plus hours to get to the South. The North offers easy access without the additional journey time.
More importantly, once you're here, the roads are wonderfully quiet. You can drive for miles on beautiful country lanes without seeing another vehicle. There are no tour buses negotiating tight village streets, no queues to enter popular attractions, no stress about parking. You simply drive, park easily, and explore at your own pace.
Many of our guests specifically mention how much they appreciate the quiet roads - perfect for leisurely drives, stopping at brocantes, or simply enjoying the scenery without the pressure of traffic behind you.
The Food
This region is renowned for its exceptional gastronomy. The Périgord Vert is famous for foie gras, black truffles (particularly during autumn and winter), chestnuts, and the prized Limousin beef - which you can buy from our village butcher in Mialet, just six minutes' walk away. The truffle markets that appear in autumn are a highlight for food lovers, and the area's five Michelin-starred restaurants within an hour's drive showcase the finest of French cuisine. This is authentic terroir - food deeply connected to the land and traditions of the region.
Events and Festivals
Don't assume that "quieter" means "nothing happening." The Périgord Vert hosts wonderful local events throughout the year - from traditional village fêtes and brocantes to food festivals celebrating truffles, chestnuts, and seasonal produce. Music festivals, artisan markets, and cultural celebrations bring communities together without the overwhelming crowds of tourist-focused events. Explore local events and festivals to see what's happening during your visit - you might time your stay around a truffle market, a vintage car rally, or a medieval festival.
But Don't We Miss Out on the Famous Attractions?
This is the question we're asked most often, and the answer might surprise you: the North has a superb range of attractions, and you're not actually that far from southern highlights if you want to visit them.
What the North Offers:
Brantôme (37 minutes) - Known as the "Venice of the Périgord," this stunning riverside town rivals anything in the South for beauty. Medieval abbey, excellent restaurants, riverside walks, and that quintessential French charm - without the tour buses.
St-Jean-de-Côle (22 minutes) - Officially listed as one of France's Most Beautiful Villages. Picture-perfect stone houses, a fairytale château, and an ancient humpback bridge. Utterly charming, rarely crowded.
Jumilhac-le-Grand (22 minutes) - A genuine fairytale castle with pepperpot turrets rising from the hillside. The château looks like something from a storybook.
Oradour-sur-Glane (52 minutes) - One of the most moving and important memorial sites in France. This martyred village, preserved exactly as it was left in 1944, is a profoundly powerful experience and truly unique in France.
Plus:
Five Michelin-starred restaurants within an hour's drive
- Dozens of beautiful châteaux with no queues
- Weekly markets in every town, selling to locals, not tourists
- Artisan workshops, pottery studios, and craft producers
- Limoges - the porcelain capital - is just 50 minutes away
- Excellent golf courses, horse riding, and outdoor activities
- The Barrage de Mialet reservoir walk - literally 15 minutes from our door.
And if you want to visit the South?
Sarlat-la-Caneda is just under two hours away - perfectly feasible for a day trip if you want to experience it. Visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the worst crowds, enjoy the town, perhaps have lunch, and return to the peace of the North for the evening.
For prehistoric cave art, you don't need to travel south at all - the Grotte de Villars is just 22 minutes away and features original prehistoric cave paintings, unlike the Lascaux replica. If you do want to visit Lascaux, it's around two hours south, and Rocamadour a little further again."
These are all manageable day trips if you're keen to see them, but you're returning each evening to tranquillity rather than navigating busy holiday towns to find your accommodation.
Who is Périgord Vert Perfect For?
Over our years of welcoming guests, we've noticed a clear profile of who absolutely loves the North Dordogne:
- Experienced travellers to France, who've already "done" the famous regions and are looking for somewhere more authentic and less discovered.
- Professional couples (typically 50+) who value quality, peace, and sophisticated relaxation over attractions designed for families.
- Walkers and cyclists who want access to beautiful countryside without crowds on the trails.
- Readers and relaxers who appreciate a good book by the pool, peaceful evenings, and the slower pace of rural life.
- Foodies who want to visit local markets, discover small producers, and experience genuine French food culture rather than tourist menus.
- Independent travellers who prefer to explore at their own pace, make their own discoveries, and avoid organised tour experiences.
Anyone who's driven from Calais and wants to reach beautiful countryside without adding another two-plus hours to an already long journey.
If that sounds like you, the North Dordogne is absolutely your place.
The Practical Advantages
Access
Here's an advantage many people don't realise: Limoges Airport is just 45 minutes north of us on quiet, easy roads. When most people think of the "Dordogne," they don't consider Limoges because it's technically in the Haute-Vienne department rather than the Dordogne itself. But for us in the northern Périgord, it's actually the perfect airport - far closer and easier to reach than Bergerac (which serves the South).
This proximity is a game-changer for guests who prefer flying over driving. Direct Saturday Ryanair flights operate from Leeds Bradford, East Midlands, and Stansted during peak season, with year-round connections from other airports. Land at lunchtime, collect your hire car, and you're at Beaux Souvenirs for our 5 pm check-in - simple, stress-free, and no marathon drive required.
Many of our guests specifically choose to fly and hire a car rather than drive from Calais. After all, why spend hours driving when you can fly for less than two hours and still have a vehicle for exploring the region?
Driving from Calais remains an excellent option if you prefer - around seven and a half hours on excellent French motorways. It's a long but manageable journey. Push on to the South, and you're looking at nine and a half to ten hours, which is a gruelling drive in a single day.
The Village Advantage
Being based in an authentic village rather than isolated rural accommodation means you have shops, restaurants, and a bar within walking distance. You can stroll to the boulangerie for fresh croissants each morning, have an excellent three-course lunch at Casa O, or enjoy an aperitif here in the evening. This combination of peaceful location with village amenities is increasingly rare.
Is North Dordogne Right for You?
The honest answer is: possibly not if you're visiting the Dordogne for the first time and have your heart set on seeing Sarlat and the famous caves. These attractions are genuinely worth experiencing, and there's a reason they're famous.
But if you:
Have already visited the South and want something different
Value authenticity over famous names
Prefer quiet country roads to traffic and tour buses
Appreciate having village amenities within walking distance
Want superb attractions without the crowds
Enjoy walking, cycling, or simply relaxing in beautiful countryside
Are driving from Calais and want to minimise journey time
Seek that increasingly rare combination of peace, quality, and genuine French village life.
Then Périgord Vert - and Beaux Souvenirs specifically - might be precisely what you're looking for.
Why Beaux Souvenirs Works Perfectly Here
Beaux Souvenirs offers an adults-only haven in a peaceful village setting, with award-winning hospitality recognised by Self-Catering Holiday Home of the Year 2025 (Nouvelle-Aquitaine) and Guest Experience Excellence Award 2025 (European Travel Awards). Our premium accommodation is in an authentic village setting, with village restaurants, bar and shops are just a six-minute walk away. The private 12m x 6m pool is cleaned daily, and guests have exclusive use of the on-site gym. Our unique award-winning vintage fashion museum is the only one of its kind in any French gîte, and the vintage fashion studio offers ladies the chance to find perfect outfits for upcoming occasions. The Barrage de Mialet reservoir walk is just 15 minutes from your door, with quiet country roads ideal for cycling and superb birdwatching throughout the area. You'll receive personal service from hosts who genuinely know and love the region.
A Unique Shopping Experience
For ladies with weddings, special occasions, or simply a love of quality vintage fashion, our fashion studio offers something you won't find on the high street. Browse curated designer pieces from the 20th century - many guests have discovered spectacular finds to take home for upcoming functions. With fewer independent boutiques on UK high streets, finding something truly unique and special has become increasingly difficult. Our studio provides that rare opportunity to discover one-of-a-kind pieces with history, craftsmanship, and style that modern fashion can't replicate.
The Early Booking Advantage
Book early in the year, and you're perfectly positioned to secure your ideal dates for the season ahead.
Book now, and you have:
First choice of dates, not what's left
Months to plan and research the area
Time to spread the cost (25% deposit, balance 10 weeks before)
Something wonderful to look forward to throughout the year
The satisfaction of securing your preferred accommodation before others
Ready to Discover North Dordogne?
Whether you're a first-time visitor curious about the less-discovered Dordogne, or an experienced France traveller seeking authenticity over crowds, Périgord Vert offers something genuinely special.
This is the Dordogne for discerning travellers who've done their homework. It's for people who value quality over quantity, authenticity over famous names, and peace over tour-bus attractions.
If that sounds like your kind of place, we'd love to welcome you to Beaux Souvenirs and show you why North Dordogne has such a devoted following among those who've discovered it.
Beaux Souvenirs has been personally inspected and listed with Sawday's Special Places to Stay, ensuring quality you can trust.
Check our availability and secure your 2026 dates today.
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